Chapter 4: Wine Varietals (White Wines)
Chardonnay
In the '80s it became de rigeur to ask for "a glass of Chardonnay" in a restaurant and passé to simply request "a glass of white wine." Chardonnay is the most popular wine in America for a reason: It's cold, fruity and easy to drink. It's pleasant with just about any dish involving cheese, eggs, fish or fowl. Winemakers have divided into two camps over the style of Chardonnay; one school of thought emphasizes the high-toned, steely, fruitlike qualities of the wine with little or no use of oak, while the other emphasizes barrel and malolactic fermentation in addition to the fruit characteristic, which lends the wine a rounder, buttery taste. Benchmarks for Chardonnay are (rich and extracted) white Burgundies and (steely and crisp) Chablis. There are fine Chardonnays from just about every region, including Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, Monterey, Santa Cruz, Santa Barbara and New York.
Gewürztraminer
This so-called "aromatic" varietal is making a minor comeback with wine consumers who are looking for something different. "Gewürz" translates as "spice" and it's immediately detectable when poured into a glass. The flavors echo the fragrant and flowery nose echoes, while providing an additional punch from a piquant, spicy component. Made with some residual sweetness, the wine seems to be a good counterpoint for spicy Chinese and Thai dishes. The Alsatian region of France has about four centuries of experience in producing these wines in the traditional style. In the U.S., cooler growing regions, such as Sonoma, Mendocino and Santa Barbara, do well with this grape.
Niagara
A native American grape varietal, the Niagara is often referred to as the "white Concord." Widely grown in New York, it is a popular table wine, vinified in a slightly sweet style, though the best producers tend to minimize its inherent foxy (a unique aroma/flavor profile variously described as wild and musky) qualities.
Petite Arvine
White grape variety grown in Italy’s Valle d’Aosta used in both dry and sweet wines. Known in Switzerland as Humagne, it is a slightly aromatic grape that makes a “raisin wine” from semi-dried grapes that still retain some of their original juice.
Pinot Blanc
White grape popular for the dry white wines it produces. Increasingly grown in California, the Northwest, Northeast, Canada.
Pinot Grigio/Gris
Pinkish-white variety producing a very crisp white wine. Grown in Oregon, the Okanagan Valley of British Columbia, and more and more in California, it shows promise for other cool climates. Also known as Tokay d'Alsace in France, Rulander in Germany, and Pinot Grigio in Italy.
Riesling
Another "aromatic" that is also gaining in popularity, Riesling can be a particularly refreshing alternative to the Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc white wine tandem. Unlike its cousin, Gewürztraminer, this varietal has little spice and instead relies on its delicate aromas and subtle flavors for its special niche. Usually lighter in style and sometimes with residual sweetness, it's better paired with lighter fare. The Riesling is a mainstay of German winemaking and also ripens to full maturity in Alsace. The top American producers have generally been those who have also had success with Gewürztraminer.
Sauvignon Blanc
This variety is often considered the poor man's Chardonnay; it can be vinified similarly but costs only half as much. But Sauvignon Blanc has a number of identities ranging from a clean, slight grassy white wine to an herbaceous, full-bodied wine backed up with oak aging. It does its best service at the table when paired with strong, forceful, herbal flavors like goat cheese and raddichio salad. Unheralded but excellent examples come from Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé in the Loire Valley. In California, just about every region produces a Sauvignon Blanc, although the North Coast counties seem to have a real knack for it.
Seyval Blanc
A French hybrid that is often thought of as "East Coast Chardonnay," or at least an alternative to same. Produced in a crisp, dry style, this white wine is often fermented or aged in oak to enhance the rather neutral flavors of the grape itself. It lends itself to service at the dining table and is food friendly. Seyval Blanc is often used in proprietary blends; good examples can be found from Prejean, Clinton and Château Lafayette Reneau.
Vidal Blanc
A cousin to Seyval Blanc, this French hybrid is becoming increasingly popular for its fresh and fruity characteristics. Normally vinified dry or just off-dry, the wine is similar in style and an alternative to Sauvignon Blanc or Muscadet; it is equally as reasonably priced. When harvest conditions permit, some wineries also produce a late-harvest, sweet dessert wine from this varietal.
Villard Blanc
A white French hybrid once widely planted in the south of France, it is more suitable for growing in warm and humid climates like the South. These vines are prolific, producing large golden berries, suitable for eating out of hand as table grapes. When vinified, Villard Blanc makes a fruity, mildly intense white wine (somewhat Sauvignon Blanc like) of fairly neutral and simple flavors. Primarily used for blending.
Viognier
The most acclaimed white wine grape from France's Rhône Valley, Viognier is a highly aromatic varietal, with a flavor profile that could include peach, apricot, nectarine, lichee, musk and flower blossom. The heady perfume of this varietal is one of its trademarks, although its flavors are sometimes problematic in matching with food. However, it does well with lobster, crab and moderately flavored fish. Use it as an apéritif as an alternative to Chardonnay. The "Rhône Rangers" in California have done an excellent job promoting this varietal. |
